Drifting in this game is hella awesome, but it does require tuning to be viable. This guide will show you three specific tunes for C3, C4 and C5 categories which I think are pretty great starting points for a beginner drifter.
It wont require any street coins except for the highest class, but you'll need to crank out some standard money for these builds and reach the minimum level to unlock the cars.


*** Do note that you'll want to use manual gearbox, but this is really easy to get used to in like 10 minutes so dont be shy about it. ***

---//// Also super important is what tyres you've got on, I recommend using the cheapest ones for drifting. If you're racing grip styles, only ever use the most expensive tyres from that phone app or the gas stations. it makes a massive difference to handling! \\\\---

I'll share the specific tuning for my Mazda RX7 (called DX7 in-game) that makes completing the C4 Drift United Club ezpz, as well as a sick build for C3 events with the Z40. I liked drifting with the Mazda so much that I bought a second one for the C5 club.

For a starting point these builds will carry you through classes 3 and 4 and be really fun to drift with. I overshot the goal on almost every track first try with these lil babies, and only a couple took a few retries to complete:


But dont forget that these builds are just starting points that really should be tweaked to your own preferences, and can be optimized much further still. Transmission tuning may seem a little complicated at first but I promise you that ♥♥♥♥ gets mad addictive. Enjoy the process of messing with stuff!

I would suggest starting with Class 4 if you can afford the build and are high enough level for the car. The massive power bump from C3 to C4 makes the latter much more fun, and the tracks are actually easier as well on top of that.
Do not jump straight into C5 because you'll more than likely find that too frustrating to start drifting with.

ECU - Sport
Turbo Kit - Stock
Cam Shaft - Stock
Intake Manifold - Stock
Fuel System - Sport
Cylinder Head - Stock
Engine Block - Stock
Exhaust Manifold - Sport
Exhaust - Sport
(No further tuning.)


Most important section next to suspension. Everything is ultimate, except for the drive train which will stay RWD of course.

With this tune the car will kinda feel like ass to drive normally, but them drift events will be a cakewalk - this is a dedicated drift build. Experiment moar if you wish for versatility.

Gear shifting speed - 0.16
Final Drive - 4.1
1st - 3.5
2nd - 2.39
3rd - 1.72
4th - 1.41
5th - 1.13
6th - 0.93
Transmission losses - 3%

Lock, accel - 0.85
Lock, coast - 0.3
Preload - 74


Add ultimate fuel tank to add enough weight to reduce the category back to C3. If it works it works.


Front arms: elite
Front Stabilizer: ultimate
brake system: ultimate
Rear Stabilizer: ultimate
Rear suspension arms: ultimate
Front Springs: race
Front dampers: ultimate
rear dampers: ultimate
rear springs: race

Rear and front spring length as low as poss while still looking good and not clipping anywhere, spring stiffness stronger in the rear and weaker in front.

front camber in the negative wherever it looks cool, mine sits at 8.7. front stabilizier 17.

rear camber is whereever the tyre is straightest, ie makes most contact with ground

front castor angle is 11.6, ackerman angle at 42. steering angle maxed, wheel toe at 0.

braking force is lowest, all set to the front.

Rear stabilizer is 137, wheel toe at 0.


Eh, just get whatever looks cool with your body kit. Front and back spacers should be ultimates, with max offset on both rear and front. Or you can do a little more rear, a little tighter front. I think looks are more important than function.

I have 265/25 r20 on front and 285/25 r20 on rear for mine but like do whatever you're a grown man.

1.5 and 2.5 tyre pressures on front and rear respectively.

This is gonna sound counter-intuitive, but this is not that important. Just get as much horsepower as you can afford while not exceeding the category hard limits.

My specific setup here follows:
ECU - Racing
Turbo Kit - Racing
Cam Shaft - Street
Intake Manifold - Sport
Fuel System - Racing
Cylinder Head - Stock
Engine Block - Racing
Exhaust Manifold - Street
Exhaust - Racing

Pressing upgrade here will let you fine tune. Max out both the Rev Limiter and Turbine Pressure.


Most important section next to suspension. Everything is ultimate, except for the drive train which will stay RWD of course.

These parts are worth saving up money for. Experimenting with different final drive values might pay off to personalize the feel even more.

Gear shifting speed - as low as poss
Final Drive - 4.42
1st - 2.64
2nd - 1.97
3rd - 1.46
4th - 1.27
5th - 0.95
Transmission losses - 3%

Lock, accel - 0.88
Lock, coast - 0.55
Preload - 65


Sport level weight reduction. You can try experimenting with stock to see how it changes the feel. Aero doesnt matter at all lol.


Front arms: elite
Front Stabilizer: stock, no stab
brake system: ultimate
Rear Stabilizer: ultimate
Rear suspension arms: ultimate
Front Springs: elite
Front dampers: ultimate
rear dampers: ultimate
rear springs: elite

Rear and front spring length as low as poss while still looking good and not clipping anywhere, spring stiffness stronger in the rear and weaker in front.

front camber in the negative wherever it looks cool, mine sits at 8.3.
rear camber is whereever the tyre is straightest, ie makes most contact with ground

front castor angle is maxed, ackerman angle at 36. steering angle maxed, wheel toe at 0.

slow bump default, fast bump maxed, slow rebound default, fast rebound 5720.

braking force minimum, all set to the front.

Rear stabilizer is maxed, wheel toe at -1. Rear slow bump 4200, fast bump 4900, rebounds are default.


Eh, just get whatever looks cool with your body kit. Front and back spacers should be ultimates, with max offset on both rear and front. Or you can do a little more rear, a little tighter front. I think looks are more important than function.

I have 265/40 r15 on front and back for mine with elite stretches.
1.5 & 2.5 for front and rear pressures respectively.

ECU - Ultimate
Turbo Kit - Racing
Cam Shaft - Stock
Intake Manifold - Stock
Fuel System - Street
Cylinder Head - Stock
Engine Block - Stock
Exhaust Manifold - Street
Exhaust - Stock

Pressing upgrade here will let you fine tune. Max out the Rev Limiter.


Clutch - Ultimate
Diff - Ultimate
Gearbox - Ultimate

Gear shifting speed - 0.28
Final Drive - 5.24
1st - 4.32
2nd - 2.5
3rd - 1.72
4th - 1.16
5th - 0.84
Transmission losses - 3%

Lock, accel - 0.85
Lock, coast - 0.55
Preload - 65

Ultimate weight reduction & stage 4 body swap, this build needs to be lightweight. Street fuel tank. Don't forget that you need to fine tune this section also thusly:

Weight - 950kg
Weight distribution front - 48%
Centre of mass height - 16.8


Front arms: elite
Front Stabilizer: stock, no stab
brake system: racing
Rear Stabilizer: ultimate
Rear suspension arms: ultimate
Front Springs: ultimate
Front dampers: ultimate
rear dampers: ultimate
rear springs: ultimate

front springs: 115
stiffness: 62
front camber: -10.5
Caster angle: 11.4
Ackerman: 70
Steering angle: 62
Braking Force: min, all towards the front

rear springs: 104
Stiffness: 79
Stabilizer: 77
Camber: -3.5


Front and rear spacers: Ultimate
Front and rear rims: 225/40 R17 Racing
Front and rear tyres: Elite Stretch

Front Pressure: 1.5
Rear Pressure: 3
Front wheel offset: 5
Rear wheel offset: 13


Ayyooo, a handful of tracks in this club will be challenging, no matter what car or tune you use.
The tracks are short so you need to make every inch of road count, and they will be on steep inclines as well so you need tight and deliberate throttle and shifting control.
You'll need to keep your combo uninterrupted, and maximise both your angles and speed.

You might feel tempted to a do a bunch of chaotic small drifts all the way through, but try to focus on finding the right line and doing smooth, long drifts instead to maximise your combo counter.

Wait there's more! omg what? no. really.
This car isnt for drifting (although it is kinda slippy) - its a race build, but its one of my faves in the whole game so I thought I'd share it too. It'll humiliate any NPC opponent, and place within the top 500 on time attacks without any effort, basically.

What makes it so much fun is its the sort of build where if you enter a turn too quickly, the solution is never to slow down, but to slam on the nos until you're at the right angle.
I've spent a fair amount of time balancing the drifty / grippiness of this car and I'm really happy with where its at now.


[cant remember if i swapped it or not, but im using the BC32]
ECU - Stock
Turbo Kit - Stock
Cam Shaft - Stock
Intake Manifold - Stock
Fuel System - Street
Cylinder Head - Ultimate
Engine Block - Sport
Exhaust Manifold - Stock
Exhaust - Stock

Max out the rev limited and medium torque


[T50S Swap]
Clutch - Ultimate
Diff - Ultimate
Gearbox - Ultimate

Gear shifting speed - 0.14
Final Drive - 4.4
1st - 3.09
2nd - 1.99
3rd - 1.47
4th - 1.25
5th - 1.08
6th - 0.8
Transmission losses - 2%


Ultimate weight reduction & stage 4 body swap
Street fuel tank plus ultimate aeros

Weight - 1051kg
Weight distribution front - 45%
Centre of mass height - 15

Front downforce - 36.25
Air resistance - 1.8
Rear downforce - 41.25


Front arms: elite
Front Stabilizer: stock, no stab
brake system: ultimate
Rear Stabilizer: ultimate
Rear suspension arms: ultimate
Front and rear Springs: elite
Front and rear dampers: stock

front springs: 93
stiffness: 49
front camber: -6
Caster angle: 8
Ackerman: 30
Steering angle: 56
Braking Force: 12, all towards the front

rear springs: 72
Stiffness: 104
Stabilizer: 56
Camber: -2.5


Front and rear spacers: Ultimate
Front and rear rims: 245/35 R18 Elite
Front tyre: racing -10
Rear tyre: racing +10

Front Pressure: 2
Rear Pressure: 2.5
Front wheel offset: 20
Rear wheel offset: 15

Go forth and get sideways boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii (dont forget to experiment and have funzies)


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